Dent breakaway bolts8/12/2023 ![]() ![]() If it is giving you trouble, you can heat it a little without really annealing the material, and it should bend easily. On that note, I would say that a 10-degree bend should not be an issue for you. And I am uncertain if bending 10 degrees would work with the material’s current tempered state.Īnswer: I haven’t worked a lot with tubing, but I have plenty of experience with 6061 sheets. Does the material need to be annealed before bending that small of an angle? And if so, do I need to retemper it to maintain its strength? I am unsure that the bend would need annealing with the small number of degrees to be bent. I need to bend a few pieces about 10 degrees. Question: I am building a flying ultralight using 6061-T6 aluminum tube with an outside diameter of 1.9 in. That is, you remove material to create the V, which can be either a breakaway groove or a very sharp inside radius. One way that I think works better is to cut the V groove. That said, I know that some haven’t had much luck with this way of grooving, as it tends to mark the parts up. In either case, whether or not this produces a breakable joint is all a matter of penetration into the material. The groove also can be made with a V-shaped rolling wheel pressed into the material, with the material on top of a solid flat surface. The process creates a V groove using a punch or die set to indent the sheet metal. Question: Do you know an actual term that describes a depressed, groove-type breakable joint in sheet metal? That is, if a depressed groove is formed into a piece of sheet metal, the single piece of sheet metal can be bent in an up-and-down motion along the depressed groove until the sheet metal breaks and separates into two pieces.Īnswer: To the best of my knowledge, this is called depression grooving. Whatever option you choose, know that this laminated tooling concept should work. Regardless, it’s another option to consider. Whether adding a punching operation makes economic sense will depend on the equipment you are using and the amount of tooling you are building. Then you only need to snap them together, clamp them, and run a weld bead. Another way to align the individual components is to use a small-diameter punch to create a half-shear, where the slug is punched halfway out of the sheet. I assume you will be running a weld bead down the laminated pieces, and using the barstock is a great idea to keep the pieces in alignment before you do. If your part has a finish requirement, protect the die with urethane film to eliminate the marks. Know that once assembled, the individual pieces will still scratch the material you’re forming, but they won’t dent the material you’re bending.įor the punches, scratches usually won’t matter, but for the dies, scratches might. The laser is preferred because the heat-affected zone at the cut edge will harden the HRP&O material and reduce wear. Of course, stainless steel can work well if you need something that wears less than HRP&O material.Ĭreating the pieces to laminate using a laser or waterjet is the only way to do an excellent job. round bar plug welded on the ends.Īnswer: That concept works well, and for the most part, you can make it out of hot-rolled pickled & oiled (HRP&O) punches, too, as the nose radius isn’t too small for the applied tonnage. 304 stainless steel round rod? The laminated sections would be made from 0.5-in.-thick 304 stainless steel, held together with 0.5- and 0.75-in. Question: How would you feel about a homemade, 4-in. Keep the questions coming, never stop questioning the status quo, and never stop learning. I’m honored to know that, thanks to the print magazine and the internet, my content reaches readers from far and sundry places. These come from readers across the country and around the globe.Īs always, thanks for your questions. This month, I cover a range a topics from laminate tooling to 6061 aluminum tube and even ironworker operation. This laminate die is comprised of 0.5-in.-thick sections of 304 stainless steel. ![]()
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